Knitted fabric and method of knitting the same



Oct. 18, 1933. A. FRIEDMANIN 3 2,133,323 I KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Filed April 9, 1935 INVENTOR (11 bar? Jvtedmann BY s\-%Q 3 ATTORNEY Patented Oct. 18,1938

UNITED STATES KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD OF KNITTING THE SAME Albert Friedmann, Wyomissing, Pa, assignor to Louis Hirsch Textile Machines; Inc., New York, N. Y a corporation of New York Application April 9,

.8 Claim.

This invention covers a new and useful improvement in knitted fabric and a method of knitting it upon a flat knittingmachine.

The invention is especially useful and valuable 5 in relation to sheer silk full fashioned hosiery fabric in which defects and irregularities are particularly noticeable and objectionable, but is also of value in relation to any other sheer or semi-.- transparent knitted fabric in which uniformity is 1o desirable or essential.

- The eliminates is the extremely common and objec- {tionable one of .horizontal ringsor stripes which seriously mar the appearance of much otherwise 15 perfect sheer silk fabric. This results, as is well known, from lack of uniformity in the silk thread which, in spite of the greatest care in manuface ture, varies in diameter in different. parts and from the practice of knitting such fabric from a single thread. This brings such inequalities ainto adjacent courses thereby accentuating them and producing variations in fabric thickness which appear as bands or rings. All sheer silk hosiery knit from a single thread contains the defect and a great'deal of otherwise perfect fabric is consequently discarded or sold as seconds" entailing a serious loss to the manufacturer- The fabric of this invention may be as sheer as desired and yet substantially free of the objectionable rings. Unlike other sheer silk fabric the courses are equalized by the employment of two similar yarns throughout, laid simultaneously and also knit simultaneously. Each of these yarns is composed of any desired number a of threads corresponding to the desired weight of fabric. For example, a four yarn fabric maybe knit from two two-thread yarns. In appearance, the fabric resembles fabric knit from, say,

a single four-thread yarn with the important difference that it is subtsantially ringless. This results from the presence in each course of two threads. Each thread contains the unavoidable irregularities, but those of one will seldom coincide with similar irregularities in the other.

Consequently they tend to equalize each other so that no varying pattern which can be observed by the eye as rings, remains.

An additional feature of the fabric is that it is run resistant. The breaking of a single yarn will not expose a wale to an unopposed open run because the second yarn will tend to hold the broken yarn and if it does succeed in running the general loop structure will still be maintained and the run will be largely concealed by the remaining unbroken thread. Furthermore, the fabric defect which this invention substantially.

1935, Serial no. 15,311

is somewhat more flexible and elastic than equivalent single yarn fabric, features which also improve its wearing and run resisting qualities.

In the drawing:

Figures 1, 2 and 3 are diagrammatic illustrations of the manner in which the yarns may be laid by the yarn carriers for the production of the fabric; and V Figs.'4, 5 and 6 illustrate diagrammatically three fragments of fabric made in accordance with this invention, all characterized by the two yarn feature throughout each course. 7

As already'stated, the primary object ,of the invention is the production of silk fabric of any desired sheerness which is substantially ringless and otherwise similar in appearance to ordinary single thread silk fabric.

To produce the fabric of Fig. 4 two yarns l and 2 of similar. characteristics are laid simultaneously for each course, as shown in Fig. 1 and are then knit simultaneously by the usual knit- .ting operations. The gauge of each yarn will depend upon the weight of fabric desired. They may each be two-thread yarns if a four-thread yarn fabric isdesired, one may be a' two-thread and the other a single thread yarn for a threethread fabric, etc.

A double yarn fabric having the same total number of threads as a single yarn fabric may appear slightly heavier since two yarns will, obviously, occupy more space than a single yarn of the same number of threads. However, the apparent weight or sheerness of the fabric can be controlled at will by the utilization of yarns of suitable sizes and loops of suitable length to produce the desired appearance. In fact, a distinct saving in cost of manufacture is obtainable through the possibility of using lighter yarns to produce a fabric of greater apparent weight. Aside from the gauge of the yarns they should, obviously, have characteristics as, identical as possible to produce in the fabric the same appearance as fabric made from a single yarn in each course.

The two threads may be laid by two yarn carriers moving together or closelyfollowing one.

another or, if desired, by a single yarn carrier through which both yarns have been threaded from separate cones. The yarn carrier or carriers may be operated by the usual frictions. The fabric may be fashionedand also reenforced at the heel, sole and toe in the usual way and possesses in all respects the appearance of the familiar single thread fabric minus the objectionable rings.

The fabric illustrated by Fig. 5 is similar .to that of Fig. 4 in that it consists of equalized courses each containing two separate yarns throughout, but differs from that of Fig. 4 in that four separate yarns are employed in the fabric instead of two. As shown in Fig. 2 one of the yarns 3 is laid in every course, whereas the other yarn changes in each course of a series repeating only when the series is completed. Thus course A contains yarns 3 and 4, course B contains yarns 3 and 5, course 0 contains yarns 3 and 6. In course D yarn 4 again appears with yarns 3, and so on through as many series as necessary.

Yarns 4, 5 and 6 must, of course, be as nearly identical as possible and yarn 3 also except, perhaps, in size. The actual knitting of these yarns into fabric is performed in the usual manner.

The yarn carrier mechanism disclosed in my pending application Serial No. 709,730 filed February 5, 1934, may be employed to advantage for laying the'alternating yarns 4, 5 and 6 in conjunction with a carrier operated by an ordinary friction for laying the common yarn 3. v

The fabric of Fig. 6 is also the same as the fabrics of Figs. 4 and 5 in that it consists of equalized courses each composed throughout of two yarns identical except, possibly, as to size, but differ from that of Fig. 4 in that four yarns instead of two are required and from that of Fig. 5 in that the four yarns are laid in a different order. That is to say, course E is composed of yarns I and 8laid simultaneously (see Fig. 3)course F of yarns 8 and 9, course G of yarns 9 and I0, course H of yarns l0 and 1, and so on in repeated series. Each course, it will be noted, contains a yarn found in thepreceding course and a yarn not so found. The actual knitting is performed in the usual manner.

If yarns of different sizes are employed these must, of course, be distributed properly so that yarns of the same size will appear in each course. For example, if yarns 1 and 8 employed in course E are one-thread and two-thread respectively, then yarn 9 must be one-thread and yarn l0 two-thread. Each course will then contain a one-thread and a two-thread yarn of otherwise identical character.

The method of producing the fabric may be carried out advantageously by yarn carrier operating mechanism of my pending application Serial No. 709,730 filed February 5,1934, referred to above, suitably modified by the addition of an additional finger for the fourth yarn and an additional selector cam for this finger, the control of cams being arranged so as to maintain two fingers in carrier rod operating position during each yarn laying stroke and to select the correct pair of fingers for each course.

The three fabrics described are, in reality, one and the same fabric produced by variations in the method of laying the yarns. Each consists of a series of equalized courses composed throughout of two yarns each, the yarns being identical except, possibly, as to size and which combined produce sheer fabric similar to single yarn fabric but substantially free of rings. At least one yarn in each course is interlooped with itself in the following course. The fabric is more flexible than ordinary fabric and, consequently, more durable. It is also run resistant for the same reason and because each loop contains two yarns in frictional engagement. Both yarns are not likely to break at the same loop and the unbroken one will exert a restraining effect upon slippage by the other. Also, if the other yarn does run the un-.

broken yarn will still maintain the loop structure and will partially conceal the run, by maintaining theaifected wale and adjacent wales intact and the loop structure undistorted.

It will be understood, of course, vention is not limited to the fabric or exact method of yarn laying described herein. Any

. knitted silk fabric each course of which contains throughout two yams of identical character and which together are the substantial equivalent of a single silk yarn of a weight ordinarily employed and of suflicien't sheerness or translucence that any rings whichmay be present are clearly visible is within the scope of the invention, and also any method of producing it upon a flat knitting machine which includes the laying of two yarns throughout each course to equalize them and the interlooping of one of these with itself in the following course.

preceding course whereby any inequalities in one yarn are substantially equalized and diffused by the inequalities in the other yarn of the same course.

2. A full-fashioned selvedged silk stocking fabric of a weight in which so-called washboard effects, horizontal streaks, bands or light and heavy shade characteristics can ordinarily be observed, as for example in a substantially translucent stocking, composed throughout a substantial portion thereof of a plurality of yarns laid in courses, each course comprising a group of separate natural silk yarns, the groups of separate yarns in adjacent courses being of substantialy the same color and character, each group of yarns being laid for single course only until all of said plurality of yarns have been so laid, the said groups of yarns being similarly laid in repeated series, each group for a single course only in each series throughout said substantial portion of the length of the stocking, whereby the inevitable inequalities in different portions of the same yarn of natural silk are diffused and distributed, and said inequalities are all blended by the said interposition'of single courses of different groups of yarns so that the so-called washboard effects, horizontal streaks, bands or light and heavy shade characteristics are substantially v eliminated.

3. A full-fashioned selvedged silk stocking-$3- ric of a weight in which so-called washboard effects, horizontal streaks, bands or light and heavy shade characteristics can ordinarily be ob served, as for example in a substantially translucent stocking, composed throughout a substantial portion thereof of at least four separate yarns of natural silk laid in pairs to form each course of said portion until all of the yarns of natural silk have been so laid to provide a series of courses, in which series no two adjacent courses contain the same pair of separate yarns, and in which series each course contains a pair of yarns of substantially the same color and character as the pair of yarns in the other that the ,in-

courses, the said pairs of yarns being similarly laid in repetition, each pair for a single course only in each series throughout said substantial portion of the length of the stocking, whereby the inevitable inequalities in different portions of the same yarn of natural silk are diffused and distributed, and said inequalities are all blended by the said interposition of single courses of differ nt pairs of yarns so that the so-called washboard effects, horizontal streaks, bands or light and heavy shade characteristics are substantially eliminated.

4. That method in distributing full-fashioned selvedged silk hosiery or blank therefor the variations existent in the yarns of natural silk from which such silk hosiery is made and thereby producing full-fashioned silk hosiery of uniform texture notwithstanding such yarn variations, which consists in the following steps in the production of-hosiery of a weight in which so-cailed washboard efiects, horizontal streaks, bands or light and heavy shade characteristics can ordinarily be observed, as for example in substantially translucent hosiery:-laying a plurality of separate yarns of natural silk in groups of substantially the same color and character for each course of loops and knitting a series of successive interlooped courses with no two courses of the series containing the same group of yarns; and continuing in successive series of courses, each series consisting of a plurality of separate yarns laid in the same manner as in forming the first series of courses, until a substantial portion of said stocking or blank is knitted.

5. That method of distributing in full-fashioned selvedged silk hosiery or blank therefor the variations existent in the yarns of natural silk from which such silk hosiery is made and thereby producing full-fashioned silk hosiery of uniform texture notwithstanding such yarn variations, which consists in the following steps in the production of hosiery of a weight in whichso-called washboard efiects, horizontal streaks, bands or light and heavy shade characteristics can ordinarily be observed, as for example in substantially translucent hosieryz-laying a series of at least four separate yarns of natural silk in pairs of substantially the same color and character for each course of loops and forming a series of successive selected pair of yarns across saidneedle interlooped courses with notwo courses of the series containing the same pair of yarns; then continuing. in successive series of courses, each of which is composed of at least four separate yarns laid in the same manner as in forming the first series of courses, until at least the leg of the stocking below the top welt thereof has been knitted, whereby a full-fashioned selvedged silk stocking is provided wherein the silk-thread irregularities are so distributed that a silkstocking of uniform texture and appearance is presented.

6. That method of distributing in full-fashioned selvedged silk-hosiery or blank therefor the variations existent in the yarns of natural slk from which such silk hosiery is made and thereby producing full-fashioned silk hosiery of uniform texture notwithstanding such yarn variations, which consists in the following steps in the production of hosiery of a weight in which so-called washboard effects, horizontal streaks, bands-or light and heavy shade characteristics can ordinarily be observed, as for example in substantially translucent hosieryz-laying a pair of yarns of natural silk of a series of yarns from one edge of and across a bank of needles to form one course; then dropping one of said yarns and picking up a third yarn at the opposite edge of said bank of needles and laying the selected pair of yarns across said needle bank; then dropping the yarn previouslypaired with said third yarn and picking up a fourth yarn at the first-mentioned edge of said needle bank and laying the bank, then dropping said third yarn and picking up the yarn dropped after forming the first course at the second-mentioned edge of the needle bank and laying the selected pair of yarns across the needle bank and thereby completing a series of courses, in which no two courses contain the same pair of yarns, and continuing through at least the leg of the stocking the laying of series after series of courses of said yarns as specified, each course of each series being of a pair of yarns of natural silk separate and distinct from every other pair of yarns of that series.

ALBERT- FRIEDMANN. 

